Take the cake
Durango pastry chef is veteran of sweet art

By Karla Sluis
Herald Special Sections Editor

Centuries ago, it was traditional to crumble a sweet loaf of bread over the bride’s head as a symbol of her fertility. Wedding guests would then scramble and fight on the floor for the "lucky" crumbs.

With the exception of the rare cake-smushing prank, most couples today view the wedding cake as a refined ritual – the crowning glory of a special day. The confection has come to symbolize love: It’s the sentimental "first meal" that unifies the bride and groom.

From its simple origins, the wedding cake has become an elaborate art form. There are soaring tiers, bows and pearls, mousse and fondant, and even detailed candy versions of the bride and groom.

"Sometimes people don’t think about how much work goes into those cakes," said Joanne Misener, owner of Unique Cakes by Joanne in Durango.

In her 31-year career as a baker, decorator, cake show judge and sugar-art teacher, she can attest to the intricate work involved in making cakes.

At a chef show in Durango years ago, she created edible alstromeria flowers made out of gum paste, which resemble painted porcelain.

"The chef said, ‘No those are plastic.’ He couldn’t believe they were edible, so I went over and proved it."

Professional cakes are showpieces, and the cost can sometimes be a shock. Misener cautions the couple planning a wedding to set aside money in the budget early if they want a special cake. Prices can range from an average $300 to $1,000.

"People will spend oodles on a gown, and by the time they get to the cake they’re out of money. They need to decide how much they can spend and then visit a bakery or an individual baker."

A baker’s service can include baking, delivery, setup, on-the-spot repairs and cutting advice. Misener says some bakeries in Colorado don’t do the actual baking. They get undecorated cakes sent in frozen from other parts of the country because of problems inherent in high-altitude baking.

Before couples go to the baker, they need to have a firm number of guests. The cost of some cakes is calculated by the slice. Misener says in our region a cake that serves 150 is considered average; 300 is considered large.

"Our weddings are relatively small here, compared with the elaborate ceremonies back East, where 500 guests is considered average," she said.

The type of cake also influences the price. Heavier cakes are more expensive, and much harder to bake here, according to Misener. The covering on the cake – butter cream, rolled fondant, chocolate, marzipan – will also affect the price. A light cake covered with buttercream is generally the least expensive option for couples on a tight budget.

When it comes to flavor, "there are no traditions anymore," Misener said. The bland white cake of past decades has been replaced by tiers in three or four different flavors, like chocolate, carrot cake, or red velvet. This option allows guests to choose their favorite flavors.

Misener recommends a filling inside the cake. "People say they want a light cake, but without a filling it just tastes blah." In addition to buttercream, couples might choose white or dark chocolate, strawberry, mocha or fruit preserves.

In step with the trend toward uniqueness and individual flair, cake decorations run the gamut from elegant to wacky. Misener has created cakes in the shape of Mickey Mouse, a helicopter, and a Mad Hatter’s cake that was purposely lopsided.

Fresh flowers as cake-toppers are popular with local couples, according to Misener. And her personal favorite is coming into fashion – edible lace, bows and pearls made of fondant, chocolate or gum paste.

Misener takes the cake to the reception with each tier separated and puts it together at the site. And she always brings along extra icing.

"When you deliver up into our mountains, those roads can be rough going, so you have to be prepared to make repairs."

As a judge for cake shows, Misener’s pet peeve is a poor display around the cake. "I like to use mirrors, and special plates. Presentation is so important. You have to go the whole nine yards."

She also has strong feelings about the bride and groom smashing cake all over each other’s faces.

"You should not do that. You have a gorgeous wedding dress on or a suit or tux. The pictures look awful, your face is a mess. I think you should take a bite and do it nicely."

To contact Unique Cakes by Joanne, call 259-0957.